
Photo by Frazer Harrison/GettyAs the judges of the Project Runway season 7 finale repeatedly said, this wasn't an easy one.
Heidi Klum, Nina Garcia, Faith Hill (ummmm, why?), and top American designer Michael Kors eventually came to a decision that has me scratching my head.
Based solely on their collections, I'd wholeheartedly agree the competition was stiff. Visually, Emilio, Mila, and Seth Aaron all produced beautiful and inspired work.
(SPOILER ALERT)
But as Seth Aaron was named Project Runway's Season 7 winner, I wondered why nobody thought it was more than a little weird he sent a collection down the runway inspired by Nazis.
Seth Aaron stated multiple times his collection was inspired by the German and Russian military in the 1940s. Those long leather boot pants certainly looked like they were meant to goose-step, and his signature piece could be easily reconstructed into a red and black swastika. So did Seth Aaron really send Nazi-inspired couture down the runway? If not, why didn't anyone mention that what he said was just weird -- if not downright inappropriate. That thought distracted me so much I couldn't even enjoy the amazing leggings. And was that Einstürzende Neubauten playing in the background?
After that editorial shock, Mila "the glove" sent up a very tame collection. It was lovely, strong, and seemed right at home at Bryant Park. So I found myself drifting and focusing more on trying to ID the remixed music behind her show, finally settling on what I think might have been a techno version of Spirit in the Sky. (Interesting soundtrack choice, but not very "modern.") Maybe people in fashion love the shadow inspiration, but every time Mila said it, I felt a little embarrassed for her. It seems more likely to be the subject of a third grade art project than a runway show during New York's fashion week.
Emilio was my favorite this season and I've never been disappointed by what he's sent down the runway; although I did turn a little on him after the home visit episode where he was bitchy about Tim. That's just not cool, Emilio. Everybody loves Tim Gunn, and you should too.
For the finale, Emilio created a pattern with his own name, which I loved, loved, loved. However, I questioned the wow factor of his collection, as I could actually see myself wearing more of his clothes than anyone else's (and I'm neither a supermodel nor someone who will be attending the Oscars anytime soon). Although his (insect-inspired?) green gown did catch my attention in a way the rest of his collection didn't. The judges seemed to echo my own reservations, calling his collection commercial -- but they were still impressed.
Seth Aaron's dubious judgment aside, it was an extremely satisfying runway show -- especially compared to last year's train wreck in LA. It felt good to be back in New York and back at Parsons.
Who did you think should have won?
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Comments (13)
I was COMPLETELY and IMMEDIATELY repulsed and weirded out when Seth AAron stated his inspiration (1940's German and Russian military...Sorry people those are NAZIs) and continued to be with his weird looking models and Nazi inspired show. When no one mentioned it and they crowned him the winner I vowed to boycott Project Runway.
Hmmm.....I watched that show and I totally didn't think "NAZI'S" when Seth Aaron's collection went down the runway. That is kind of ridiculous. I think you people are taking the wording to literally. Personally I was thinking he said "1940's fashion.....PAUSE....and military." Not "NAZI'S" Lighten up people and grow up.
Nope, he said it twice. "1940s German and Russian military." He didn't say fashion, he said military. He said it, not me. Seth Aaron probably just needs a history lesson and wasn't thinking "Nazis" but that's exactly what 1940s Germany military was. Exactly. On purpose or out of ignorance, either way is not cool.
There are a few movies that came out recently that show that era. He's not saying he's a Nazi lover, he was just inspired by that erz of military. Which is totally understandable. Maybe he watched Valkyrie or Inglorious Bastards when he got home and thats where he drew his inspiration from. Everyone is so quick to judge.
Yeah, I didn't really think Nazi either. Don't think you can take fashion that literally or you would be offended by loads more collections. In other news, I really hated Emilio's collection, mainly because I thought his palette was Color Me Bad.
german/russian 40s, even particularly nazi style, has been an inspiration for all kinds of design, fashion, and filmmaking. there was a very clear, striking aesthetic, and one that was itself inspired by what had preceded it. it's silly to try to equate that to being sympathetic to the politics or ideals of the time and place, any more than you would try to pin the same kind of labels on designers who employ corsets or burqa-inspired work. (dude, it was peace-loving hippies who embraced the hitler-commissioned volkswagen beetle). what's obvious, though, is that you try to throw this faux outrage out there to put down the designer you didn't want to win.
emilio set himself up for a fall; seth aaron was too good a competitor for emilio to be so smug and arrogant, as if he were untouchable. his reaction to losing was embarrassing and probably will affect his opportunities, so it was stupid as well. and really, designing a vanity fabric this early in the game? were this season as popular as previous ones, 'esosa' would be well on its way to being a punchline by now.
i did enjoy that little glance between nina and tim in the aftershow when emilio started in on his 'nobody wanted that model until i had her' rant. this was a guy with talent but who ruined himself with uncontrolled ego.
Have anyone noticed that a person of color has not yet won Project Runway??? Always a runner up - not the winner. I am sure you will not let this comment appear.
PROJECT RUNWAY AND LIFETIME TV OWE THEIR VIEWERS AN APOLOGY
Mr. Henderson today told Entertainment Weekly that he knowingly alluded to the Nazis in his collection because the Nazis made a "statement." The Nazis brutally killed my family. That Project Runway did not call Mr. Henderson out for his at best unthinking allusion to the Nazis suggests a contemporary historical amnesia that is frightening. That the show allowed Mr. Henderson to win means that a national media outlet legitimized using the Nazis as fashion inspiration.
An apology is necessary to clearly demonstrate that the show and the station will NOT condone using the Nazis as a source of cultural symbolism. The fashion we wear outwardly represents our inner allegiances and beliefs. To allude to a moment in history is to recall that moment and to revive it within the present. To award a prize to fashion inspired by those who killed my family and millions of other innocents is to suggest that the culture of the Nazis is flourishing in our popular imagination. Project Runway and Lifetime TV need to rectify this legitimization of the Nazis in a public apology.
Seth Aaron today came out to defend his choice of inspiration, which he TWICE, identified as “1940s German and Russian military.” He said (in EWeekly online) that he thought that the Nazis and KGB were successful at "making a statement" and that that was what he was trying to do. Seriously?! During the first half of the 1940s, the German Military was commanded by Hitler and the Nazi party. The “statement” uniforms they wore were the last things seen by millions of Jews, gays, and other people murdered under Nazi hands. During the second half of the decade, Germany was completely demilitarized, so you could not have been referring to the non-existent uniforms of those years. Regarding Russia- He stated that he specifically included 1940s Russia so as to dilute the potential claim of Nazism. But Stalin’s Red Army perpetrated its own crimes against humanity, some would say on a scale that rivaled the Nazis. Seth Aaron, the fact that you would claim to respect their “statements” could be likened to someone respecting the “statements” of the KKK, and designing a fashion collection inspired by white hoods and robes. Absolutely appalling. And even more shameful the Project Runway and Lifetime would fail to address it. Seth Aaron, maybe the truth is that you are not a racist or anti-Semite, but just that you are too ignorant to know better. If that’s the case just admit it and apologize.
I think a lot of people need a history lesson. Russia was an Ally of the US, England and France in WWII against Germany, Japan and Italy. Chanel was widely criticized for remaining open for business and friendly with occupying Germans but is still good design. Shape, symbol, color are the visual elements and inspiration in them can be found anywhere and turned to more positive effect. People who display part of the Berlin wall are not celebrating it as an instrument of oppression, they display a piece of history. If you can't tell the difference behind using an aesthetic from military uniforms (though frankly the Hussars beat them all hands down when it comes to military wear) and celebrating the philosophical thought that ordered those armies around then you're just a tad simple to be touting enraged criticisms on the basis of history.
Using inspiration from both sides of a conflict, blending them, pointing out that their philosophical differences aside their aesthetic sense remained connected through a Mittel Europa visual language. It's a clever way of pulling the focus from their opposing causes and into mere cut and color. Find a people who has no violence to their name for me. Some Polynesians engaged in cannibalism but you still wear pareos. It's visual inspiration, not philosophical emulation, up your game. ;o)